Tuesday, June 9, 2009

Grilled Angus Beef Hamburger and Julia Child


Marsh has been discounting their "Certified Angus Beef" for several weeks. Critics of Angus beef (known as Aberdeen Angus outside the U.S.) say the superior quality of the beef is a product of successful marketing. They do agree that Angus meat is finely marbled, making for good steak. The naturally occurring fat also makes the beef delicious in hamburgers.

Ironically, after eschewing beef for years I've found myself eating beef again. Ground sirloin makes the best hamburger but then I probably should not make that claim, not having tried different cuts or breeds of beef. Angus beef, even chuck, makes great burgers. I like burgers thick and plain. I don't mix in onions, don't even season the meat with salt or pepper. I do like to quickly sear the outside by cooking on a very hot stovetop grill, then lower the heat after I've seared both sides to allow the inside to cook a little more. I like the outside crusty and brown, the inside raw.

Good beef should be savored for its flavor, not camouflaged by salt, herbs or spices. I am aware how raising cattle for meat uses up tremendous agricultural resources. The only way to justify this ecologically expensive and politically specious process is to eat the resulting product sparingly but with the respect it deserves. Grilled hamburger is wonderful served with vegetables grilled with equal simplicity. Sliced beefsteak tomatoes and giant straw mushrooms are delicious grilled in the same pan as the burgers. I found that the burgers don't produce much fat while cooking. I had to spray the pan with a thin coat of olive oil. 

The overall dish did not taste greasy at all. So long, Julia Child! Her recipe for hamburger called for the addition of bacon lardoons and/or butter to the ground beef. I am sure that would make the resulting hamburger richer but a richness that seems unnecessary to me. Julia's two-volume Mastering the Art of French Cooking was first printed in 1961. I bought my copy in 1976. Many people who love eating, love food and cooking, still use the book. In fact, writer Julie Powell, revitalized her marriage by cooking for 365 days from the first volume of Julia's book. Columbia is releasing a movie based on the book, Julie and Julia, this coming August.

Posted via email from Duende Joes

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